Algonquin Provincial Park is well known for its extensive canoe camping routes and backpacking trails but one thing which gets overlooked are its cross country ski trails. Part of that reason is the abundance of cross country ski parks much closer to the Greater Toronto Area. The other reason is that there are only 2 track-set trails within the park.
However, there’s something magical about Algonquin. The park is very quiet during the winter and the cross country ski trails heighten the sense of remoteness as they snake their way deeper into the wilderness.
For this trip, I decided to try Fen Lake since it started from the West Gate parking lot on Highway 40. Leaf Lake looked to have some better views but since it was located near the East Gate, it’d add up to 1.5hrs of additional driving.
My partner for the day was my colleague Alex.
After departing Toronto at a brisk 8am, we eventually pulled into the West Gate parking lot at around 11:30am. The temperature was -7C earlier that day but it was already warming up to near zero by the time we started skiing. The forecast called for 7C later that day.
As expected, the snow conditions weren’t exactly ideal at the start. The freeze thaw cycles over the past few days had consolidated the snow and the track resembled a bobsled run. Unfortunately, I left my touring skis at home and was using a pair of skis more suited for racing so I didn’t have the best control when it came to descents.
Due to the icy conditions in the morning, we were covering ground really fast. Perhaps too fast!
Thankfully, the temperatures warmed up quite fast and was turning the snow from glass to something more granular. This was perfect since the tougher parts of the trail were near the end when the temperatures would be at their warmest.
We noticed a first aid barrel at 2 equidistant points along the trail. The cover for the first one was improperly secured so we took a chance to examine the contents before fixing the lid. The barrel contained everything needed to set up an emergency shelter along with fire starting equipment and of course, first aid supplies.
Part of the allure of the two track-set cross country ski trails were the warming up huts along the trail. Although they can be booked for overnight stays, they’re open to anyone looking to take a break and warm up. The Fen Lake hut was equipped with a wood burning stove and basic furniture. It reminded me of the huts maintained by the Alpine Club of Canada out west.
Since it was so warm, Alex and I decided to have an extended lunch outside on the patio. I took the opportunity to pull out my stove and make some ramen.
The long break was perfect since it allowed the snow to soften up for our return.
A pair of skiers passed us while we were having lunch. The only other skiers we met this day.
The first half from the parking lot to the Fen Cabin was mostly rated easy with just one “More Difficult” trail near the start. The return loop was all rated, “More Difficult” and it was quickly apparent why as we herringboned our way up several long hills and snow plowed down narrow twisty descents. Some of these sections would’ve been downright dangerous if the warmer temperatures hadn’t softened up the snow. We could see sets of footprints on the descents where other skiers decided to walk down.
Before long, we were back at the parking lot where the melt off was noticeable from the morning. On the way back, we made a quick stop at Algonquin outfitters and were amazed at the amount of snow they must have received this winter.
Unfortunately, this will most likely mark the end of the cross country ski season for me. With the temperatures in Algonquin rising up to 20C just days after our trip, the trails will most likely be either thin ice or bare ground.
But what a great way to end a wonderful season. Bring out the canoes!
