Mt.
Edith is a mountain just northwest of Banff which offers 3 separate summits
which are all accessible from a popular hiking trail. (3 Summits for the
price of 1 !) The north and central peaks are moderate scrambles while
the south summit is considered a difficult scramble. The north summit
is the highest of the three.
My partners
for this day were Rie and Kaori. Both of them were experienced scramblers
who were looking forward to climbing all 3 summits that day.
After dropping
off a friend at the airport at 9:30am, I headed straight for the mountains
as I picked up Kaori (in Canmore) and Rie (in Banff) for our scramble
up Mt. Edith. Due to my late start, we ended up leaving the trailhead
at around 11:30am - quite possibly the latest start to date.
The trail
to Cory Pass was fairly steep and uneventful. Mosquitos kept us from taking
any breaks as we reached the pass in just over 2 hrs of hiking. The temperature
must have exceeded 30C that day since it was HOT !
From
the pass, the north summit was just another 30 minutes away. Due to the
popularity of this mountain with scramblers and rock climbers alike, the
trail to the summit was fairly well defined. But with that being said,
I did manage to lead our group up an unnecessary gendarme along the way
to the north summit. I called it a "warm up" afterwards but
the girls didn't find that too funny.
The
north summit can be seen near the center - to the right of the gendarme.
After
another 10 minutes of scree bashing above the gendarme, we finally we
reached the infamous chimney below the north summit. Although we knew
there were 2 of them, we decided to go straight to the east facing chimney
since it seemed to be the more popular one. After leaving our packs at
the base of the chimney, we all squeezed ourselves up the tight chimney
which led us to within 10m of the summit.
Here's
Kaori starting up the chimney.
After realizing
that there was no register on this summit, we decided to move on to the
center summit which was marked by some sort of insulated water bottle
impaled upon a stick.
The
center summit was a straightforward scramble which was gained by the ridge
between the north and center summit.
Following
the ridge brought us to a small notch before the summit block which we
bypassed on a slabby ledge to the left. After a few meters of this careful
traverse, we scrambled up a gully to the right which brought us back to
the ridge and onto the center summit.
Here's
a look at the summit ridge between the north and center summit.
The
center summit contained the register and was a testament to how popular
this scramble was.
Here's
Kaori proudly displaying her fruit as Rie munches on a sandwich.
After
a nice long rest at the center summit, it was time to move onto the challenging
south summit. But before we could do that, we had to descend a very steep
gully which connected the two summits. Now that I look back, this gully
may have been the crux since it was very steep and slippery due to the
pebbles-on-slab surface. Ok... it may have been my worn out soles but
the fact that this gully had a rappel station should count for something
!
Here's
Kaori and myself as we slowly make our way to the col between the center
and south summit.
The
south summit of Edith was very interesting. It wasn't as difficult as
I had first anticipated but the surface was very slippery due to the small
pebbles. The guidebook mentioned a tunnel route on the left as being the
easier route and it was probably right ! We went up to the right instead
and ended up on some exposed scree ledges and had to climb up some more
pebble-on-slab ledges to reach the "trail" which originated
from the tunnel route. From there, cairns led the way through a small
trench and up the ridge to the summit.
From
left to right : The south summit, climbing up the right hand side of the
gully, crossing a scree ledge, and scrambling up towards the ridge.
After a quick
rest on the south summit, we promptly started our descent but stopped
just before the small trench to survey the downclimb. That was when Rie
had noticed that the bite valve from her drinking tube had just fallen
off and was squirting water all over the rock below us. I found it a little
humourous but the bite valve had the last laugh as my hand slipped from
a wet handhold as I fell about a meter onto my back !
Luckily for
me, the 50m 6mm rope in my pack managed to cushion my fall as I simply
rolled backwards and came to a stop. The girls screamed in unison but
were relieved to see me get up and continue my descent with just a few
scrapes and bruises. Ironically, about 5 minutes later, one of the girls
above me dislodged a rock the size of a grapefruit which just happened
to hit me in the left knee. I found this to be much more debilitating
than my fall since I couldn't apply my entire weight to my left leg. I
started to wonder if these last two incidents were really just coincidences.
:)
The
consipracy theories running through my head must have clouded my sense
of direction since I seemed to have trouble finding our entry point. The
girls must have felt like Mario in a game of Donkey Kong as we moved left,
right, up and down a bunch of ledges until we finally found the gully
we came up from.
A quick scramble
down the gully brought us to the col which then brought us down to Cory
Pass. The trail was very tiring and painful and to make things worse,
I had run out of water for the duration of the hike back to the car.
After reaching
the car, we quickly jumped in to escape the clouds of mosquitos and drove
into town to grab a Vanilla Coke. Upon reaching Canmore to drop off Kaori,
I realized that the hiking pole I borrowed from her was not in my car.
Despite the late evening and exhausted state we were in, we drove back
to the trailhead at Cory Pass and picked up the hiking pole which was
lying in the middle of the parking lot. What a way to end a day !
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